Understanding Fashion’s Impact in Chicago and the Role We Play in the Change

Fashion was never an industry I planned or even thought I’d work in. Growing up I always admired clothes and loved shopping. But I never considered myself a “fashion person”.  To me, a fashion person was someone on the pulse of the latest trends, who could identify which designs belonged to which designer, then share more about the collection and runway it was from. That wasn’t me. In fact, it still isn’t me.

Yet, I work in fashion. 

While I won’t win general fashion trivia at a local pub quiz night, that isn’t the determining factor for taking up space within this industry. So, what is? The common thread is that we all wear clothes. Every day we make fashion choices. When to put a load of laundry on and what cycle settings. If a garment should be hung or folded. What layers to wear (or not wear) based on the weather — and so much more among a spectrum of functional and creative decisions. These elements therefore make us all a fashion person. 

While not everyone has the same fashion style or journey, it’s important to distinguish the varied approaches to the industry. My fashion philosophy is deeply rooted in environmental and social justice. While fashion is an incredible tool to express individual creativity, communicate beliefs, interests and ideas, explore culture and heritage, and experiment with one’s identity; it is also a politically, socioeconomically, environmentally, socially, geographically, sexist, and exploitative industry.

However, it doesn’t have to be.

Understanding Fashion’s Global Impact

Currently, the global fashion industry is responsible for 2-4% of global carbon emission, which is the total combined emissions of six countries — France, Germany, and the United Kingdom (England, Northern Ireland, Scotland, and Wales). Despite dozens of misleading or otherwise incorrect reporting, the range is still incredibly concerning and should not be on par with emission of countries that include millions of people’s impact and the subindustries and systems operating within those countries. Additionally it’s estimated 14% of global microplastic pollution comes from apparel.

The World Business Institute’s 2021 report outlined how 96% of a fashion brand’s impact is from its manufacturing supply chain. Over half of the fashion industry’s emissions is a result of the processing, dyeing, and manufacturing trims. Plus, an estimated quarter of its impact is from raw materials cultivation and extraction. There are endless statistics, studies, reports, and otherwise evidence that outlines just how bad the fashion industry is. But I don’t want to keep talking about all that is wrong.

Fashion’s Impact in Chicago

While it’s helpful to understand the wider global impact of the fashion industry, it’s equally as important to be aware of how fashion is impacting Chicagoans. Textile waste contributes to 4.6% of the Chicago’s waste system. Each year, roughly 874,000 tons of clothing end up in Illinois landfills; that’s equivalent to a pile the size of nearly 4 full-sized Willis/Sears Towers (Chicago skyscraper).

How does change happen in the fashion industry?

This column and Sustainable Fashion Week Chicago’s mission is to provide tools, resources, and opportunities for us to shift the national and global fashion industry for good, to prioritize people and the planet. How does change happen?

Imperfect sustainability and consistent action

I am a firm believer and advocate for imperfect sustainability. If we want for the right moment or for something to be “perfect”, we may never begin at all – or create the positive impact we want. It’s better to consistently try to be sustainable and make a mistake 1 day or 100 days of the year versus making a perfect sustainable decision only one day out of your life.

Stop buying from fashion brands that aren’t sustainable

While fashion is a systemic issue and it is not the customer/ shopper’s responsibility for how brands decide to run their business, we can’t ignore the power we have as consumers. At the end of the day, brands wouldn’t be successful if people weren’t buying from them. The best thing to do for the planet — and your wallet, is to say no to shopping fast fashion and fashion brands that do not have environmental strategies and practices in place.

Infuse your personality and hobbies in the pursuit

Infuse your personality and hobbies in the purest of change and activism. If championing change doesn’t feel exciting or like an extension of yourself, chances are greater that your dedication and pursuit of being a part of that change, won’t last. Don’t be afraid to leverage your photography skills, screenwriting craft, sewing abilities, organization skills, and more!

Leverage your influence

We all have influence and can make an impact — whether we’re the star of a TV show, a teacher, designer, accountant, parent, or student; our voices are powerful and when we expose ourselves to learning more about the world around us, the impact our choices have, and positive actions, we can truly change the world for good. Have conversations with co-workers, classmates, and family about the fashion industry.

Prioritize shopping second hand, first

I understand that many people do not have the budget to purchase exclusively from sustainable fashion designers other brand. That’s okay. The good news is there are a plethora of vintage, secondhand, and thrift stores — especially in the Chicagoland area, that help make this possible. Browse this free map of over 100 local secondhand shops.

The privilege of shopping second hand and vintage

While on the topic of secondhand, I recognize the privilege that comes with it. Not everyone is physically able to shop secondhand. Additionally, there are people who work night shifts or multiple jobs and are unable to make it to the secondhand, vintage, and thrift stores.

Rewear, repair, and restyle existing items

The number one most sustainable thing everyone can do is to rewear and take care of the clothing items we already own. Instead of throwing out something when it has a tear or a button falls off from being worn so much, get it repaired!

Fun Fact: Every pice of clothing that is repaired, significantly reduces its environmental footprint up to 30%!

Don’t go at it alone!

Making a change in your life let alone in the fashion industry is a big challenge and responsibility; be sure you’re not going at it alone. Join our free group chat on Slack to get connected to other sustainable fashion enthusiasts across Chicago and Illinois. In the chat you can ask any questions you have about your sustainable fashion journey, sustainable fashion in general, learn about upcoming events, and more!

Thank you for reading the first article in my “Fashion Friday” segment. I appreciate you taking time out of your day!

Remember, the best sustainable fashion journey isn’t about chasing perfection. Instead, it’s about choosing the best option for you that meets the environmental values you’re choosing to follow — then prioritizing and trying to live those out as best you can.